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Due to my website and various visits to meetings
throughout Europe (hopefully someday in the states as well) I've run in quite
some other Supra freaks. I met Nick I in Assen (NL) on the Japanese car day.
He has a JZA80 with a very sexy paint color and awesome rims. The picture
on the left is the car of Nick, when I first saw it in Assen. |
| Nick is a horse power freak pure sang, just like
most of the other Supra owners I know. After a few BPU's and +++'s it was
time for the real work. Getting rid of the stock twins (good for 400 rwhp)
and replace the whole system with a big single turbo kit. The decision was
made to buy an SP57 turbo kit, due to the quick spool up (same spoolup as true
twin turbo mode). The kit must be good for something like 550 to 580 rwhp.
Look at the massive turbo compressor in the top left picture. The kit is a
big eye catcher for sure!
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Although the SP57 kit can be run on
the stock fuel system of the Supra (export fuel system 6x 550cc
injectors), we decided to upgrade the fuel system as well. For this
upgrade the powerhouse racing fuel kit 1 was used, but it was extended
with dual in-tank Walbro pumps. So it's more like the powerhouse racing
fuel kit 2, but with 6x 720cc injectors. The PHR delivery pipe (fuel
pipe) can be used as double feed. One pump feeds the first three injectors
and the second pump feeds the last three injectors. In the middle you can
have the return line. We opted for this version, hence the extra fuel
delivery line (braided hose). Follow the install instructions for exact
details.What are we waiting for lets start! |
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| Fuel kit installation
Although we installed the fuel kit synchronously with the turbo kit,
I'm going to explain the installation separately to prevent confusion. The
source of your fuel is the fuel tank. While you had to drop the fuel tank
completely on the MA7 car to reach the fuel pump, on the JZA8 there is a
nice bracket in the trunk to remove. If you remove this, you see what's on
the right in the picture. You can disconnect everything (unbolting the
banjo may spray some gasoline) and take out the pump bracket. |
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Here you see the fuel pump removed from the fuel
tank. The assembly on the left in the picture is the pump from Nicks car.
It's an 'export specification' pump. The assembly on the right in the
picture is the pump from the Japanese car I took my own 2JZ-GTE engine
from. Note the difference in size of the fuel pumps. I don't know for sure
if the Japanese Supras have different sized pumps, or if this is a
coincidence or a model change. The export pump has 'bolt on' power clips,
the Japanese Supra pump has a connector for the power delivery. A minor
detail on the brackets is that the export bracket has a return 'hose' and
the Jap supra has a return pipe going down to the pickup filter. |
| This is the idea behind why I showed you the second
bracket. We cut the Jap bracket to match what's in the picture here. Using
two metal plates perpendicular to the old brackets made this whole
assembly. As the pumps are rotational magnetic pumps they can influence
each other in a bad manner. Use a magnetic field rubber protector (hey
what's the correct name for that) around one of the pumps to prevent the interference
of the two pumps. When everything is mounted we had to slide the two pumps
as close to each other as possible, otherwise they didn't fit the small
hole in the tank. |
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Depending on the setup, you use one delivery
line or two. With one delivery line you have to connect the outlets of the two
pumps together. With our setup of two delivery lines (one line for three
injectors) we had to drill a new hole for the second delivery line. There
is only one spot in the bracket really suitable, pictured here on the
left. The PHR kit came with a special nipple to mount here. Some other
fuel kits use one new delivery line and use the stock delivery line as the
new return line. First check everything you have in your kit, before you
start drilling holes!!!! |
| After you've got everything mounted and in the
right position, clean everything with an air compressor. There are quite a
few metal shavings etc. which we certainly don't want to end up on the
bottom of the tank. The pickup filters can be best mounted last, but
before you blow everything clean. It's not a good idea to blow the
shavings into the pumps! When everything is clean, you can proceed with
installing the pumps in the tank. Note we did not put the level sender on
the bracket. In our situation it was not possible to mount the dual tanks
together with the level sender. |
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Now it gets tricky. Put the connector for the
level gauge in the bracket and hang in loosely in the fuel tank. Put the
two fuel pumps (the whole assembly) in the tank. Slowly let it lower into
the tank and try to match the holes of the level sender with the holes in
the fuel pump bracket. If you have the export gas tank and bracket there
is a return hose going into the tank. Mount this on the right nipple of
the fuel pump bracket. |
| After the pumps are in the tank and on the same
level as where the fuel level gauge sender mounts, you can bolt in the
screws. Don't let the screws fall into the tank. Well you got two screws
anyways, but better not to let one screw fall in! Good luck. Nasty job. |
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When the bracket is in the tank you can mount
the lines. The stock lines go on their own places and the new fuel line
screws into the newly installed bracket. Ah, I heard you asking. The
electronics!! How to wire it up? I did it by reusing the two pins in
the connector (the original fuel pump power feed) as the new plus for
either pump. I put a little bolt through the cover and used that as a new
mass. So in practice I've doubled the pumps and doubled the wiring also. |
| Although information is a little bit
controversial about this, for what I know the Walbro pumps are not
designed for running on less than 12 volt. I choose to run both pumps
from a fuel pump relay. I used only one fuse for both pumps (one relay
also). It is very unsafe to run one pump only, as you would have good fuel
feed to only 3 injectors and the others are more or less dripping (lean
condition). With two pumps feeding one delivery pipe, you can have one
pump on the stock fuel pump ECU and run the second from a relay. |
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The new fuel delivery line (for feeding the
front three injectors) can go under the plastic protection. Make sure you
tie-wrap the fuel line every 15 cm (6 inch or so). Better using too many
tie wraps here than not enough. Put the plastic protection back on. If you
need to make slight alterations to get a better fit, do so. These are fuel
lines and must never come loose. To get the line above the
tank, some slight loosening of the bolts holding the tank wraps is
required. |
| Now we're skipping a few passes, as I am quite
sure you know how to remove the upper intake manifold (surge tank) and the
throttle body yourself. After you've removed the fuel delivery pipe and
the injectors we can start installing the new injectors. These are top
feed and have different spray diameter. The kit comes with spaces you can
install into the holes in the lower intake manifold. You might want to tap
these spacers in slightly with a hammer. This didn't work for me
so we used some fluid gasket sealer to seal them. |
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The new injectors come with their own harness.
You need to cut the old connector from the engine loom and use a good
soldering connection for the new harness. Make sure you cut them to the
right size. It's nasty having wires that are too long. Take into account the
position of the fuel rail. It's best if the wires go over the fuel rail,
so measure the wire length with fuel rail in place. |
| On these important connections I really advice
using soldering connections and shrink wrap. I'm not a big fan of crimp
connections and I really hate tape. Tape is used for keeping the wires
together. Shrink wrap is used for isolation and protection! |
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Now it's time to put in the fuel rail. The fuel
rail comes with its own spacers. It's best to install the return line (in
the middle) and the rear delivery line first, before you mount it on the
intake manifold. Note that the hex allen bolts on the fuel rail are all
some weirdo non metric size, so either you have to buy new tools or just
use a wrench (like we did) to tighten these up. You can connect the front
delivery line when the fuel rail is in place. |
| Depending on the type of air flow measurement
you are going to use, you need to make the upper intake manifold ready for
the HKS VPC. This requires some alterations in the intake manifold,
starting with removing this little air (fuel) filter. |
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The thread on the sensor we removed in the
previous picture is exactly the same as the spacer which came with the VPC
kit (1/8 npt, like so many nuts and bolts). The inside of the spacer has
the same thread as the temperature probe (hey, it was meant this way!).
Install the temperature probe and use the copper ring as a gasket, or use
some fluid gasket sealant. |
| The pressure sensor of the VPC must be mounted
with the pressure line down and preferably on one vacuum line itself (e.g.
no T in other lines). I used the vacuum line close to the temperature
sensor for the VPC. The rear vacuum line (on the end of the manfold) which
was used as a source for the EGR VSV is now used as the vacuum source for
the other devices (pressure sensor for the EFI etc). You have to play a
little with the location and direction of the VSV for the fuel pressure up
and the location of the VPC pressure sensor. On the right was not the
final mounting direction. |
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This is a picture I nicked from the site of
powerhouse racing. Here you see how to hook up the fuel pressure
regulator. Note the fuel pressure gauge (oil filled). Ours didn't fit!!
The thread on the AFPR is 1/8 NPT and the thread for the gauge we received
was fundamentally different. Only two threads did some catching, not a
reliable fit I suppose. We used the pressure sender connection for the
sender unit of the Apexi fuel pressure gauge (in dash). NPT thread is not
tight, you need some teflon tape or lock-tight to make it fuel
proof. |
| Well that's about all I tell you about installing the fuel system upgrade and the VPC. I hardwired the VPC and
had quite a few problems getting it to run. It turned out to be a faulty
VPC unit or an EPROM. Hardwiring the VPC is not difficult. You need to
connect only four wires and a resistor. The four wires go to:
Black -> Ground, Red -> switched +12 v, Yellow -> MAF signal,
White -> RPM signal
The resistor (1200 ohm) can be best soldered on the MAF harness in the
engine bay (cut the wires and use shrink wrap!!) For a complete guide of
hardwiring the VPC, check http://www.mkiv.com
Installing the SP57 turbo kit
Installing a turbo kit on the mkIV is pretty easy. Yes installing. But
removing the stock twin turbo system is a big PITA. Here I will go through
the steps of installing the kit and what you should take care of / note /
whatever. |
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The general idea for removing the stock twins
(in car) is just loosening every bolt you can reach and getting the parts
out of the car one by one. Start on the top and remove all the lines,
vacuum hoses and intake and front outlet pipe. The rear outlet pipe cannot
be removed, it comes out together with the turbo. Crawling under the car,
you can remove the down pipe and the three nuts for the exhaust gas
control valve (EGCV). This is a little manifold where the two turbine
outlets come together in the downpipe. |
| The bolts of the EGCV are very nasty. We had to
dremel one bolt off. Make sure you have the right tools to attack these
bolts. For two bolts you can use a 1/2 inch ratchet, for one bolt the
studs for the lambda sensor are in the way. Best tool to attack this bolt
(we used the dremel, but that was because it was unmovable) is a 3/8
socket. Don't use 1/4 socket, they are too fragile! |
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| Well, a final note on removing the twins. Make
absolutely sure you unbolt everything one by one. If the EGCV is off, you
can reach the oil lines and coolant lines and that clears up everything quite
a bit. The turbos can come off as one assembly (both turbos together), or you
can choose to remove the front turbo first, and then the manifold with the
second turbo as one assembly. Removing the front turbo involves getting
out all the studs of the turbo. A little socket or wrench on the studs and
they come out easily, after you've removed the bolt that goes on the stud.
Don't get distracted by how long some people claim they can do this. I've
heard 'three hours' or 'less than four'. Well people, it took us a day!
But we like to talk a lot as well! LOL. |
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After some fighting with the right (or the
wrong) tools, hopefully you find yourself in the same situation as
pictured on the left. The stock twins are gone! Stuff some paper in the
six exhaust ports and start cleaning the block (if you care about a clean
block, we did). Now take a good look at the points where the stock twins
got their connection (oil, water etc.) and let's discuss what we are going
to do with these. |
| Coming from the heater core through the firewall
we have two big pipes (coolant). The pipe on the right in the picture goes
to the coolant connection down on the block, the pipe on the left (no hose
in the picture), goes to the middle of the block. If you shorten the stock
pipe that used to bolt to the rear turbo intake, and turn it upside down
you can use two 90 degrees rubber hoses for a perfect fit! Make sure the
hose doesn't hit the downpipe (check later). The two little vacuum pipes
down right can be capped off. These go to the pressure tank located
underneath the intake manifold. This unit is obsolete with a single turbo,
so remove if you want to. |
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Almost all single turbo kits don't use water
cooling (only oil). The nipple in this picture needs capping off, just
like the nipple on the end of the block (next to where the heater hose
connects). I used some epoxy glue to close the nipple and a vacuum cap to
cover it up. Only a vacuum cap would be possible but I didn't want to take
the risk of loosing it (the epoxy glue works great for this). Cap both
nipples off. |
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These two little nipples need to be glued with
epoxy as well. The turbo kit doesn't make use of water cooling so close
them down. I glued them close and put some hose on it to make it a nice
finish. |
| There are two oil outlets on the block. The rear
oil outlet will be capped off (blue cap in the picture). The front oil
outlet will be used for the SP57 kit. We bought new gaskets from Toyota to
seal these up (rings in the picture). If needed you can use the rear oil
nipple as a position to screw in your oil pressure sender. |
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Depending on your preference and availability
tap in the right thread for your EGT probe. We installed the Apexi EGT
probe, with a 1/8"-28 thread (drill size 8.4 or 8.5 mm). For the
thread freaks under us; this is not NPT; NPT is 1/8"-27. The material
of the header is very strong, I advice to use a good drill specially meant
for strong metal. We first used a regular HSS drill but it didn't cut
through! Use enough cooling (oil) while drilling and tapping! You're
handling a 2000+ dollar manifold, so precaution is required. |
| A note on the position of the EGT. There are
two 'requirements' for the position of the EGT probe, as close to the
exhaust valve as possible (this means as close to the head as possible)
and in the flow of all the exhaust gasses (where the manifold comes
together). Obviously this is a contradiction unless you have six
temperature probes. On this configuration (SP57) we decided to put the
probe in the sixth runner, close to the head. The last cylinder tends to
run hottest as the others are closer to the water pump and radiator and
because of the design of the intake manifold, where you have more
turbulence near the last intake compared to the front (close to the
throttle body). Don't even bother putting the probe AFTER the turbo. This
position is of totally NO use. The only thing you can measure is if your
cat will overheat. There is absolutely no linear relation between the
temperature before the turbo and behind. Some times the turbo 'cools' the
exhaust gasses by 100 degrees, sometimes more, sometimes less. |
| To get a clean fit, you need to remove a little
bracket where (I assume) the stock airbox bolted up. Don't tell anyone we
used a big hammer and crowbar to remove it. It is 'point welded' with only
two spots. Use some hammerrite paint to cover the naked metal, or it will
rust. On Nicks car, one of the claxons was in the way as well, relocation
is necessary. |
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Put new exhaust gaskets on the studs (I assume
you're not going to do this job daily), unbolt the right motor mount and
loosen the left (left=intake side). Lift the engine using only the front
hook (as in the picture) and slide on the whole assembly. If you don't
have a lift, ask a friend to 'pull' the engine to the side, while you put
on the turbo kit. But first continue reading, as we had some problems
mounting the kit. |
| Here you see the problem we had with the kit.
The engine is still hanging in it's lift, hence the engine mount not in
the crossmember (highlighted area). If we would have lowered the engine,
the turbo would hit the suspension tower. This situation kept us thinking
for a few moments, as we did assume the kit was 'ready to install'. But
there was totally no way this kit would fit the way it came out of the
box! |
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After some better inspection, we found out the
bolts on the compressor housing can be loosened easily for rotating the compressor.
Well, definitely something to find out / need to know, otherwise you won't
be able to get the kit in the car! When the compressor housing was
correct, we didn't need the engine lift anymore, keeping the engine
flipped for a few seconds was enough to put on the whole assembly. |
| I prefer to pre-oil the turbo shaft before
starting up. You can do this with the starter (disconnect the injector
resistor and crank the engine for half a minute), but in this case we did
the pre oiling as showed in the picture. |
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After some good pre-oiling, screw in the blue
oil nipple. It might be a little bit difficult to get this one screwed in,
as the blue paint is on the thread and will go off when you screw the
nipple in. It needs to go in a couple of threads to seal up correctly;
otherwise you have an oil leak. |
| This is how the rest of the piping looks like.
On our kit, we had to rotate the BOV 180 degrees. We assume it was
installed wrong, the pipe did not fit the engine bay that way. Another
flaw in the delivery of the kit. Costs 10 bucks for a special wrench ;-) |
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There are three vacuum points that need extra
attention in this modification. The first hose is this one, the middle
nipple of the charcoal canister. This hose is used for depressurizing the
charcoal canister. For this, filtered (measured) air is used. With the VPC
you don't have an airflow meter, so hooking up this hose to a little air
filter and stacking it down low is sufficient. |
| The idle speed controller (ISC-valve) is located
on the intake manifold. This is a little stepper motor controlled by the
computer. Normally it allows measured air to bypass the throttle valve, in
order to idle the engine. As the VPC replaces the stock air flow measuring
mechanism, we installed a tiny K&N air filter on the ISC. I've seen
other configurations where a giant 'garden hose' behind the main air
filter, but that doesn't make your engine bay nice in my opinion. |
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| The last vacuum connection is the positive
crankcase ventilation. The 2JZ engine has two nipples for crankcase
ventilation. One hose goes from the left valve cover straight into the
intake manifold and one hose goes from the right valve cover to 'before
the turbo'. The two valve covers are connected in between with hoses. The
ventilation nipple going directly into the intake manifold has an
overpressure valve; whenever the manifold is under boost, this valve
closes so the crankcase is not pressurized. The crankcase ventilation will
be done through the right nipple. In case of a vacuum in the manifold, the
oil vapors are 'sucked' through the left nipple (close to the manifold)
and the other nipple has hardly any job to perform. Only the right nipple
(exhaust side nipple) needs some slight relocation. The idea behind
getting rid of the PCV system is moving your detonation level higher (oil
vapors are bad for detonation). The second idea behind removing the PCV
system is preventing the oil from condensing in the intercooler. These two
are both solved when you ventilate the crankcase (exhaust side nipple)
through a catchcan. There is absolutely no need to ventilate the intake
side nipple, just leave this stock. The PCV system is for environmental
issues and relocating this nipple will result in a lot of smoke and oil
vapors rising from the catchcan. Just test it if you want to see for
yourself; you can even cap off the intake side ventilation nipple. One
nipple is enough, unless you have a lot of blow-by. |
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You can leave the nipples for the waste gate
open for the time being. The standard valve spring pressure is something
like 9 PSI or so (don't know exactly). When you are going to hook up the
boost controller, apply the intake manifold pressure to one nipple and the
pressure through the boost controller solenoid to the other. See your
boost controller manual for exact hookups of external waste gates. |
Well, that's what we did on Nicks car, in a nutshell. If you have any
suggestions, comments, whatever, use the forum down low here for your feedback.
Anything is appreciated!
Supra 
