Installing a Fuel Pressure Gauge

A fuel pressure gauge is something you really need when you go with the boost pressure above 1 bar, or 14 psi.
This pressure is when the stock fuel pump can give you a hard time, as it could be unable to pump enough fuel at this pressure. I don't know the exact fuel flow at this pressure, but the main thing we got to bare in mind is the age of the fuel pump. Most pumps are there from when the car rolled out of the factory; at least 9 years.

The easiest setup for a fuel pressure gauge, is using a sender / dash combination, from an oil pressure gauge. It is absolutely NOT A GOOD IDEA to use a mechanical pressure gauge. With this option you have to lead a fuel line into the car. And fuel in your car does not sound safe to me.

These are the ingredients needed, add your own ingredients if you're creative enough:

1) Fuel hose with bolt on connection to sender unit 2) Sender unit + connection 3) Special Banjo bolt from Toyota 4) Copper washers 5) Head unit with pod 6) Special fuel banjo connection from Toyota 7) Connection nut

Note the little copper thing lying on the right of the pod, that is something that had to be cut of the fuel hose I had. You can toss it away.

The banjo bolt is the same bolt as the one going into the fuel rail for the cold start injector except this bolt has two holes in. It's special Toyota equipment. The European ordering number is: 09268-41190, the description is "Adaptor". I don't know about the ordering number for other countries, especially the U.S.A. If you know the order number, please This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it and I will put it on my site. The bolt on the right is the original bolt going into the cold start connection of the fuel rail. His order number is: 90401-12097.

If you cannot get this banjo fuel connection, you might settle with a 23902-42010. This it the hose going from the fuel rail to the cold start injector. Expect at least 150 dollar. So not a good option! Try to get the Union. In case you cannot get the bolt or so, you can email me. If possible I will help you out. The 'adaptor' is quite cheap, the U-Zone is not cheap (about 50 dollar).

Note from one of my American visitors:

Very nice website. I read your article concerning fuel pressure gauge install; very good.  BTW: the U.S. adaptor for the SST tool mentioned in the TSRM (the one that allows installation of a fuel pressure gauge install "through" the bango fitting for the cold start injector is: 000TG-01252; it is a 12-mm fitting, so I was told. This banjo bolt is not the one described on your site, but the one on Rob Carlile's page.

When installing the pressure sensor, I first checked to find a suitable position to mount it. 

This could be a good location. Mount the fuel pressure sending unit to one of the bolts holding the brake fluid reservoir to the brake booster. I was thinking of using the lower bolt.

This position didn't work well in my situation, as the hose going from the cold start injector connection to the pressure sending unit would not be 'free' movable. Something that is really needed as the engine will tilt while driving.

This is the other side of the brake fluid reservoir. Connecting the pressure sending unit here turned out to be a better place, as the fuel hose would not be bend too much.

Now we need to connect the other end of the hose to the fuel rail. To do so, first release the fuel pressure. The procedure to release the fuel pressure is:

1) Remove the EFI fuse in the black fuse box under the hood
2) Loosen the fuel filler cap on the rear end of the vehicle (where you normally would fill'er up
3) Optionally 'try to start' the engine. Just spin the engine around two or three times. Now you can be absolutely sure no pressure is in the fuel rail anymore.

Here is the connection made with the cold start injector banjo bolt. Use some copper or aluminum washers in between the bolt and the Unions. Don't forget the hose clamp either! It's not fun having fuel flowing into your engine bay. Well, not for longer than a minute.

Now double check all hose connections made. Be absolutely sure you didn't made any fuel leaks. Put back the EFI fuse in the black fuse box and close the fuel filling cap. Put the starter key in the 'ON' position and short the "+B" and the "Fp" terminals in the service connector. Check if the pressure in the fuel hose is building up and no fuel is flowing out somewhere. In a normal situation the fuel would be either stay in the fuel hoses or rinse out very fast. It does not 'drip' or something.

If everything is ok, start the engine and check again. Drive a couple of miles and check for the last time. If everything stays fine, you're ok and you can mount the head unit somewhere on or in the dash.

Three notes on this fuel pressure gauge tip:

1) For you English, Japanese, South African and Australian blokes: Find yourself an other place to mount the pressure sending unit. You're brake booster will not be on the side of the intake manifold, but on the exhaust side.

2) The Haynes manual tells you can check fuel pressure with a special Toyota tool too. It's number is: SST 09268-45011 (SST 09268-45012). This is the complete EFI Fuel pressure gauge. It features some cables, a gauge and connections. Not advisable to buy, as it's expensive and you can only monitor the idle fuel pressure.

3) This is the way I solved the fuel pressure gauge problem. There are plenty other ways, for example the one done by Rob Carlile. His page is linked on the links page.

Finding a place to mount the head unit, connecting the head unit and leading the wire from the pressure sender to the unit must be found out by yourself. I assume you will have no problem with this part of the installation.